There's a couple of adjustments to make to the drawings for the new front subframe, but nothing serious.

The centre tray doubler (1) protrudes very slightly into the big holes where the torsion bar sleeves sit. Reducing the doubler's length by ¼" either end will take care of that. On parts 4 and 17, the bottom corners need a greater radius as, in situ, the brackets lift the towers (3 and 12) misaligning the chassis bolt holes.

Overall, I'm very pleased with the result and special thanks go to Mr Slightly-Strange for his work on the CAD drawings. There was a problem which foxed me for a while, and it was to do with the bending of one of the towers. Despite being CNC formed, one tower was 1.5mm out on its internal dimension. If you look carefully at the tower on the right, you'll see where I had to cut down its length and tack it back together again. Fortunately, the width of the cutting disc was about right to bring everything back into line again.

Chumley finished the new roller dies and, as usual, some of my measurements weren't quite as they should have been. Incidentally, I've checked the ruler on my combination square and notice that the increments start not at '0', but 2mm in. This would explain why some of my centres have been off to one side. Anyway, I had to weld on an extra collar to the bottom die to bring the 45° portion in line with the radius die.

This was all in aid of experiments in wire-edging - something I had a go at down at MPH Panels but had to draw a veil over the results. I watched a couple of videos on YouTube to get the hang of things and proceeded with marking out the rule of thumb 2½ times the diameter of the wire on the panel. What wasn't clear was which side of the line the radius die should be. I went down the middle.

The next move was to tip the flange past 90° ready to hammer down over the wire - the tricky bit.

Once I'd locked in the wire - actually a 4.75mm aluminium tube that is normally used for edging cowlings - I closed it off on the bead roller using one of the swaging dies on a flat roller. Two things were clear: 1. in creating the first 90° fold, I'd used too much pressure and thinned out the metal in the radius, and 2. the 2½ times the diameter rule of thumb wasn't working.

I would need just under 3 times the diameter to close off the gap. I measured off 14mm on the practise panel and then the bead roller stopped working! I took the motor and gearbox apart to check they were still functioning - yes, and all the digital readouts were as normal in the box of electrickery.

With the sprockets and chain removed, I noticed that the bottom shaft on the roller was locked up solid and discovered that the shaft had picked up in the bearing block. That doesn't look good.