... are, I assume, a logic-based process. The problem is that my brain doesn't work like that. Give me a cryptic crossword any day; sudoku, forget it, but I'm happy to write a lengthy formula in Excel (though it takes me a while) so surely, I should be able to grasp the principles of an electrical circuit. Not really - well, not for a period longer than thirty seconds, which is debilitating when you're trying to wire up a car.

I was playing around with my 12v power supply the other day, hoping to check a few things before start-up. Straight out of the box, the water pump control box seemed to be dead as a dodo. I've had it untouched in store for at least ten years, so it's well out of warranty. I had a look inside thinking there might be a battery that needed replacing, but no such luck. I've sent it up to an electronics chum who has all the test gear.

Off came the dashboard and all the wiring that wasn't too difficult to remove, and I started to plod through it, labelling everything as I went.

Next, off came the fuse and relay box. I had to reacquaint myself with where all the wires came from and where they were going to, and make yet another diagram - they get clearer each time - but I still came across contradictory references when I looked on the web for pointers, especially in regard to which connections are which on a relay.

As a measure of how the subject is a complete mystery to me, it took me all afternoon and the following morning to get all the panel lights to work when the lights are switched on. The thing that was foxing me was the fact that the instrument panel came from a positive earth car which is now going to be negative earth. Because of the panel's design, the panel lights had to retain their positive earth status, but the rev counter and speedo had to become negative earth to work. The insulation of the bodies of those instruments, plus some creative wiring - creative to me anyway - solved the problem. I'd got around it previously with the fuel and water temperature gauges, but didn't think it through for the main instrument's lighting. I'm sure that's not the last of my wiring woes.

Not counting the starter solenoid, I didn't have any relays on the Hillman Special, but the consensus is that they should be added to reduce the risk of fire in the cockpit. I thought I had a spare station on the relay block, but following this advice, it's been taken up by a separate relay for the high beam function. However, because I'm using dipping LED bulbs specifically designed for the Model A Ford headlamps and which draw little current, I'm not sure relays are necessary for the lights at all.

Other anomalies I discovered were two power connections and no ground to a couple of services. To help me see things a bit more clearly, I made up a bus bar that will reduce the number of wires I was trying to cram into the ignition switch. Things like the washer bottle motor, the fuel gauge sender, and the auxiliary water temperature gauge will be powered from that.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, Mr Laken has made progress on the engine side of the intake manifold. Experiments have shown that attaching gaffer tape to the magnet affords some adjustment to the blow-off valve's operation.

Now that the side plates have been fashioned, the assembly is going off to be TIG welded, so more news anon.

Counsel and I had an early start last Sunday - 5:30am - and it was blinkin' taters. A local golf club was celebrating its 100th anniversary and they'd asked if they could have a 100-year-old car to take the Chief Tomatoes to the first tee after an early breakfast. The Great Collector was happy to oblige and we spent the day before getting it ready.

At that hour, the lighting left something to be desired.