I continued to ponder the securing of the friction wheel to the original starter Bendix drive and remembered that I had cut two plates to act as jigs for feeding the punches through the flexible drive rubbers - an idea that I had abandoned.

A quick sketch demonstrated that the new route was not without merit; I had only to open the centre hole out a few thou so that the Bendix gear could be accommodated.

That process achieved...

... welding the two together was easy once I'd got the plate absolutely perpendicular to the gear.

Three aircraft quality bolts allow the wheel to be detached if and when the friction material needs replacing.

I offered up the new assembly and found that it was a perfect fit, with only a 5mm gap between the drive wheel and flywheel. The movement on the actuating pedal will thus be minimal. I've given Chumley the wooden mock-up of the rear support bracket, and that will be produced in aluminium. It's under no torque forces; its only job is to match the front casting and keep the starter motor in place, so it needn't be clamped around the motor's body. I noticed also that by using the plywood shapes I'd employed in the failed Dynastart application, because its mounting brackets were slightly taller, the new starter motor slopes parallel to the three or so degrees of the engine's inclination, allowing the friction wheel to make complete contact with the flywheel. One last thought on the setup; I think I'll slot the end of the starter's shaft and insert a flat plate which will present a larger weld area to secure the wheel plate and Bendix to the shaft.

I played about with the tuck press using a beech pattern that I'd made years ago to produce aluminium control cable exit fairings for my Jodel. That exercise paid dividends by demonstrating that if the tuck being created is not visible as the pressure is applied, the results are mixed. My chum's machine requires the panel being worked on to be turned upside down with the tuck forming in full view. Of course, clever-clogs thought he could improve on that by having the female die on top. Not so.

In more bodywork news, I bought a pallet truck wheel so that I needn't have to keep a supply of cuttings from inner tubes with which to face the wheel for non-compound shapes. I've got to take out the rib and flatten the profile, but I notice also that the two bearings are slightly misaligned - only by a couple of thou, but enough to cause the axle not to pass through the frame brackets with ease. Not sure what to do about that just now, but I'll think of something.

The Great Collector's Alvis Firefly has always had a really difficult gearbox from the moment he got it, and consequently we've all been reluctant to drive it. Last weekend, I put some oil in it. Well, who'd a thought a little bit of lubrication would make such a difference!

And putting it back in its garage, I noticed a very rusty hammer sort of thing lying on the floor. I saw immediately that it would make an ideal dolly for reaching under wings. The Great Collector donated it to the cause, and I took it home for restoration. The start line for the bodywork is nearing!